Friday, April 17, 2015





"But these are flowers that fly and all but sing:
And now from having ridden out desire
They lie closed over in the wind and cling
Where wheels have freshly sliced the April mire."

~Robert Frost




A couple of things. One, is that the blog now has a Labels and Categories list on the right side of the page that will help anyone interested, to find specific information in the archives. It will get fine tuned in the next couple of weeks. Two, I received a request to include more photos of the Container Butterfly Garden, which have been sorely absent. I'll start posting photos of it in the upcoming newsletters.

Butterfly season is happening pretty much in earnest now here at the Butterfly Container Garden. I'm seeing Painted Lady, Gray Hairstreak, Gulf Fritillary, and of course, Monarch butterflies. Several broods of Monarch cats have cycled through already. I found one chrysalis  hanging from a pot rim a couple of weeks ago, and last week, a freshly eclosed Monarch adult was spotted still unfurling and pumping its wings, soaking in the sun's rays. 

With the early show of Gulf Fritillaries here, I earnestly desire to see some of their cats host on the passion flower vines growing in the garden, these plants being the exclusive food source for this butterfly species. I saw no cats on the vines last year, but I didn't see many fritillaries either. Perhaps that will change this season. Many folks mistaken Gulf Fritillaries for small Monarch butterflies, but they are a distinct species.


-Google

Agraulis vanillae, Gulf Fritillary



-Google
Danaus plexippus, Monarch butterfly



If Buddleia is king of butterfly plants, then Lantana would be queen.

Lantana is one must have flowering butterfly nectar plant that deserves prominence, or at least some space in a butterfly garden. The two most popular species of Lantana are Lantana camara and Lantana montevidensis. My experience with both points to L. camara as a more successful butterfly magnet than L. montevidensis, but again, as with other plants, that may be attributed to butterfly regional preferences.

One can see it's a member of the mint family: from the aromatic scent of its mint-like shaped leaves when crushed, to the general arrangement and clustering of their flowers. Lantana, both L. camara and L. montevidensis are drop dead easy to grow in SoCal gardens. Butterflies are attracted to it; skippers love it and swallowtails are constant visitors!



-Google

Lantana camara "Confetti"


Personal experience with the various lantana species and varieties has pointed to L. camara "Confetti" as being the most productive butterfly attractor I've come across so far. The "Confetti" I know has florets comprised of pink outer little flowers, turning to yellow ones in the center. I've seen lantana listed online as "Confetti" with various other colored florets, but the above photo is what it should look like, not straying from the pink to yellow.

Pretty much all of the other L. camara varieties will attract butterflies profusely, although I find this particular variety to be better at it. A side benefit of lantana is the berries it produces that attract a variety of birds. And speaking of berries, they will drop and tend to sprout seedlings in well irrigated gardens. These seedlings usually aren't many and pull out rather easily, but resist the temptation to pot them up or transplant somewhere else in the garden, as these seedlings don't come up true from seed, most times reverting to a wilder form consisting of sparse flowers and straggly growth.

Swallowtails, and especially the various skipper species love lantana. If you live in an area with a sizable population of skippers, it won't be long before your shrubs are festooned with flitting, bouncing, and entertaining skippers. 

Lantana Care:

An undemanding plant, all it needs is average garden watering and full sun to part shade to promote better flowering and bushier growth (Don't over water!), plus a little fertilizer periodically during the growing season. The sunnier and warmer, the better lantana grows. It's not too fussy about soil, but will perform better in more fertile environments.

L. montevidensis being a prostrate grower, needs cutting back at the edges to keep it in check. Older plantings will eventually mound up in their centers, so if you wish to keep it looking uniform, a yearly topping will produce flatter growth. Quite drought tolerant once established, L. montevidensis makes for a colorful ground cover. Good for retaining slopes, as it tends to root where stems touch the ground, creating a fine mat of ground stabilizing roots. Planting it at the top of a wall and allowing it to cascade down the front makes for a visually stunning effect, especially against the color white.

L. camara grows as a low to medium height shrub which works well as both an accent plant and a small hedge or border. Once grown to size, I trim mine back pretty hard in the late winter (around here the end of February), allowing it to fill back in bushier and loaded with blooms. Trimming it back a little throughout the growing season will only give you a green bush, as the flowers grow on the branch tips; that's why I cut mine back hard, allowing room for it to bloom continuously as it grows back out.

Does extremely well in containers.

Average watering and occasional fertilizing during the spring and summer months is all that's needed to keep this plant happy as a clam, producing myriads of butterfly enticing flowers.

The different Lantana camara varieties come in a broad range of colors, mainly in the reds, through pinks and oranges, and ultimately yellows. There are a few whitish flowering lantanas available also now.


-Google


-Google


-Google


-Google


-Google


Lantana montevidensis colors include purple, yellow, and now a clean white. Industrious plant breeders are beginning to introduce various other colors and multi hued varieties, along with L. camara/L.montevidensis hybrids. Heady times!


-Google


-Google


-Google



Saturday, April 11, 2015





"Gardening is cheaper than therapy and you get tomatoes."
~Author Unknown



Monarch migration is happening in earnest now all across the states. The Monarch Butterflies Migration Google Earth Tour video is an excellent learning aide incorporating Google Earth and YouTube, producing a very informative narration:


Monarch Migration


We've touched upon the importance of milkweeds in the butterfly garden -- they being the only host plants for Monarchs -- and are good nectar sources for butterflies in general. We'll get back to them in subsequent posts, but let's digress a bit for now and get acquainted with other potential butterfly plants for our own gardens. We'll start off with the king of butterfly nectar plants, Butterfly Bush, also known as Buddleia.



-Google

Typical Buddleia davidii bloom, or inflorescence. At times mistaken for lilac.



If a person were to place only one butterfly nectar plant in their yard, the highly recommended Buddleia would be the premier choice hands down. Those of you who frequent Alta Laguna Park in Laguna Beach may be familiar with this plant, as there are quite a few of them growing around the irrigation control panel and small adjacent lawn near the park entrance. During butterfly season, these bushes can be loaded with various butterfly species irresistibly attracted to the sweet scent of their blooms.

I prefer to use genus species when referring to plants, as common names can be confusing. There are several other non related plants with the same common name, "Butterfly Bush". Scientific names can also be perplexing at times when their taxonomy changes for who knows whatever reasons. At times, it seems these name changes may be the result of taxonomists attempting to maintain job security within the hallowed halls of centers for higher learning.

Buddleia, also spelled Buddleja, the "j" pronounced as "y", has become more popular in gardens as of late. This increased interest has resulted in an influx of new cultivars, ranging from new flower colors to a greater selection of growth heights.



-Google

Buddleia flowers come in various colors.
 

Standard Buddleias tend to grow over eight feet tall. Due to its increased popularity in the landscape, horticulturists have been very busy hybridizing and producing selections that are better suited for many of today's smaller yards. The nursery industry is even beginning to offer diminutive 1-2 ft. round varieties, perfect for edgings, planting in masses, or potting up in smallish containers. The Container Butterfly Garden is home to the semi-dwarf variety, 'Nanho Blue'.



-Google

Buddleia davidii, 'Nanho Blue'


'Nanho Blue' is a fairly compact grower to about 4-5 ft. tall and is growing well in a medium sized pot. Whatever butterfly species stray into the garden, they always stop by the buddleia and linger, sipping the abundant nectar offered by its blooms. Many of the larger nurseries now carry dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties along with the tried and true standard ones. The Green Thumb Nursery close to me has an excellent selection of various Buddleias. If interested, check with your local nursery about special ordering these plants if they don't regularly stock them. With today's extended selection, one is pretty much assured of finding a suitable Buddleia variety that is "just right" for that one spot or for a particular container.


-Google

Buddleia flowers are found in white such as B. davidii, 'White Profusion'...




-Google

...all the way to an extremely dusky shade in B. davidii, 'Dark Knight'.


Reading glowing reports of 'Dark Knight' as being a particularly magnetic butterfly plant, in the past role of Parks Gardener for Alta Laguna Park, I planted several of them in the park not more than fifty feet from the generics growing by the irrigation control panel.

I was sorely disappointed at how they fared as butterfly attractors. They hardly received any visitors, while their generic cousins by the irrigation control panel harbored many, many butterflies that lingered until all of their blooms were spent. This is not to say that the reports I read were false or misleading; it does illustrate the fact that butterflies can have regional tastes. Most of the reports I read originated in the Midwest or back East, but here in SoCal -- at least up in Alta -- the verdict is "Phfffffft!" for 'Dark Knight' (Your mileage may vary.)


-Google

B. davidii, 'Pink Delight'.




-Google

B. davidii, 'Royal Red'.


-Google

B. davidii, 'Harlequin'.


There is (or was) 'Harlequin' growing in the Alta Laguna Park Butterfly Garden whose blooms are/were as deep, rich, and florescent as shown in the photo above. Truly, a remarkable color. It's also a variegated variety in which the foliage and color of the blooms compliment each other admirably.


-Google
Buddleia x weyeriana
Buddleia x weyeriana

B. davidii x B. weyeriana, 'Bicolor' is the offspring of crossing B. davidii
with B. weyeriana, resulting in this particularly beautiful inflorescence.


-Google

B. davidii


-Google

B. weyeriana


As one can see, 'Bicolor' is a wonderful blend of both parents, taking on the best bloom qualities of each.

Care and Feeding of Butterfly Bush:

Buddleia is one of those easy care plants that once planted and settled in, pretty much takes care of itself. Average watering is all that's needed, and food requirements aren't demanding. For more and bigger, better blooms, a good feeding or two with a balanced fertilizer during growing season is appreciated. Cutting off spent blooms will help prolong bloom time. Some of the newer, more compact varieties are sterile, so deadheading isn't so important except for looks. To deadhead a plant is to cut off spent blooms before they go to seed. Those at Alta I let go to seed, and over the course of years I transplanted quite a few seedlings around the park and gave others away to interested park goers.


How to Deadhead Buddleia


Early winter pruning is recommended, although not absolutely necessary. A yearly pruning does encourage more and higher quality blooms the following years, and makes for a less rangy, fuller plant. Pruning a consistently maintained mature Buddleia takes only a matter of minutes: easy peasy as the saying goes.


Pruning Buddleia


The above video recommends pruning back Buddleia in April, but in SoCal coastal/intercoastal areas, late winter is a better time due to our early springs (or lack of true winters depending on how one looks at things). I cut mine back around late January to early February. If yours are beginning to bud, it's time to prune. Below is a link to a downloadable PDF document on how to cut back a Buddleia:

How to Prune and Shape Buddleia

For serious butterfly garden gardeners, I would highly recommend including a Butterfly Bush in your plant palette. Once you see how attractive they are to your butterflies, you will be amazed at how many more of them come visit and linger in your garden.



Saturday, April 4, 2015






"When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant."
~Author Unknown



Below is a little refresher video on the importance of milkweed in the garden, and a good intro for those new to the blog and butterfly gardening. The hostess is particularly amusing as she expounds on the generous, anthropomorphic male attributes of one particular milkweed plant species, Asclepias physocarpa, wrongly referred to in the video as Asclepias fruticosa, a closely related species:






A. fruticosa vs. A. physocarpa. For all intents and purposes, both are admiral candidates for a butterfly garden.


-Google

 (Also amusingly known as Family Jewels Plant.)
Asclepias physocarpa;   syn = Gomphocarpus physocarpus


-Google
Flowers of A. physocarpa


There is some confusion as to the taxonomy of this particular species, and is at times confused with A. physocarpa. I know it as A.physocarpa rather than A. fruticosa, and believe that the video is using the wrong nomenclature for the illustrated plant.


The Container Butterfly Garden is home to three rather large A.physocarpa that have been excellent host plant additions here. Monarch caterpillars seem to love it. I find this plant to be as popular a host as is A. curassivica. It's easy to grow, produces prodigious amounts of caterpillar food, and the seed pods are curious-looking enough to be a show stopper.

Easy to grow from seed. There are several volunteer seedlings that have popped up in the garden that I will share with anyone if they survive and want to try one. If you wish to try sprouting some seeds of your own, Joyful Butterfly sells packets of seeds for a reasonable cost. As with A. curassivca, A. physocarpa should be pruned way back in the early winter to minimize Oe spores and urge lingering Monarchs to begin their yearly migration.


Here is a graphical illustration of the Monarch annual migration cycle from a onearth.org article entitled: Wind Beneath Their Wings. Graciously brought to my attention by Karen Schwager of Laguna Beach, California.



-onearth.org
The illustration records the adventures of the Midwestern and Eastern race of Monarchs. Our Western race overwinters along the California coast vs. Central Mexico where Midwestern and Eastern Monarchs overwinter.



 On the continuing saga of Tropical Milkweed and Oe spores:




-monarchbutterflygarden.net



Is Tropical Milkweed Killing Monarch Butterflies?

You be the judge. Personally, I see no reason to castigate A. curassavica for its association of harboring Oe spores more so than native species, and may be causing SoCal, south Texas, and southern Florida races of Monarchs to overwinter in their spring and summer stomping grounds without migrating to traditional Monarch overwintering sites, if these faults are mitigated by following the advice of the article above.

Two opposing views on planting Tropical Milkweed. One is by discovermagazine.com, the other by onearth.org:

Gardeners' Good Intentions Are Killing Monarch Butterflies

Don't Stop Planting Milkweed




Saturday, March 21, 2015





"Flowers and butterflies drift in color, illuminating spring."
~Author Unknown



Spring has sprung! Or at least is springing.

Regarding the previous post highlighting the USDA zone map, it's worth mentioning that Sunset Magazine's Sunset Climate Zones maps are much more precise than the USDA zone map that was linked to. I prefer Sunset's over USDA's for western gardens. To simplify things for that article, the USDA map was featured.

USDA Plant Hardines Zone Map

Sunset Climated Zones


I just returned from a week long trip out of state to be greeted by very warm weather and the first Monarch caterpillar sitings! Very early this year as compared to the previous. Last year (the first for the Container Butterfly Garden), caterpillars weren't spotted until well into April/May. One good thing about this warm weather is that the garden plants are literally bursting forth out of their proverbial knickers! I attribute that to the warmth and good timing of liquid fertilizer the garden received prior to my vacation departure. Tropical Milkweed is the attractor ace here, whilst the other species have yet to reveal themselves as caterpillar hosts up to this point.


One way to maintain and increase your butterfly plant stock is to start cuttings, and now is a good time to sprout some in our SoCal area.

Most plants can be propagated via leaf and stem cuttings. Others can be increased through root and rhizome division. One super easy plant to start by cuttings is Tropical Milkweed, Asclepias curassavica.


-Google
Tropical Milkweed, Asclepias curassavica


I start cuttings in sterilized propagating soil and containers nestled under clear covers using a heating mat and grow lights indoors. For many species of plants, propagation doesn't require using all of the equipment mentioned above. The video below illustrates how a grade school-era propagation technique can easily supply your garden with an abundance of butterfly fodder for a pittance, forgoing getting all geeky as Yours Truly does with the lights and the heating mat and the benches and the soils and the containers and the trays and the covers and the foods... Oy vey!






A couple of things to add to Tony's cutting video, would be to change out the water regularly, as you don't want it going bad, ruining your success at rooting cuttings. If handy, use distilled or RO water instead of tap water. Bad juju in tap water; that's why the bottled water industry is so big.

Also, I'm averse to stripping off unwanted leaves, as I believe nipping or clipping them off is safer. There are times when I prepared cuttings by pulling leaves, only to rip off part of the cambium layer attached to the leaf. Your mileage may vary.

Several species of milkweed growing in the Container Butterfly Garden are increasing themselves by casting their seeds to the wind. Many float down into plant containers where the fertile potting soil and necessary moisture are conducive to successful germination.

Waiting until I believe they are large enough to transplant into their own containers, they are removed by gently cutting out a plug of soil around a seedling, making sure a goodly amount of the seedling's roots are included, lifting the plug out with a spoon or something similar, and then back filling the hole in the parent pot with fresh potting mix.

Those of you who have milkweed growing in your gardens may wish to let some of your Tropical Milkweed seed pods mature and disperse, later to find tiny surprises popping up helter skelter that can be left in place or dug up and moved to more desirable garden spots. Or you can collect the seeds, lightly rub off the parachute fluff  between your palms, and plant them in a container of good potting soil. Easy peasy to germinate. Heck, you could even share some of them when large enough with neophytes or like-minded folks!

Another idea: those living in Laguna Beach could raise some milkweed and then donate them to the Alta Laguna Park Butterfly Garden c/o "AC" Anthony Condon, Parks Gardener for Alta Laguna Park.


Starting Your Own Tropical Milkweed from Seed:

  • Acquire a suitable container to start seeds in. Something with holes at the bottom to allow excess water to drain out of, and something that is not too deep. Nurseries and big box do-it-yourself stores sell 'em for dirt cheap. An 8 inch diameter shallow pot will accommodate close to a dozen seedlings up until transplanting time.


  • Soak seeds in warm water for 24 hours before planting. Not absolutely necessary, but it does aide in faster germination.
     
  • Fill container(s) with a good grade of potting soil. tamp down soil firmly but lightly, not too compact. Leave about a two inch clearance from the lip of the pot to the top of the potting mix.

  • Dampen soil thoroughly and let drain.

  • Place seeds about an inch apart on top of the firmed, dampened soil.

  • Lightly cover seeds with about a 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of potting soil. Tamp lightly so as not to disturb seeds. No need to re water.
     
  • Optional: cover pot with plastic wrap secured with a large rubber band. Poke a few holes in it to allow a bit of air flow to minimize potential fungal growth.

  • Place somewhere that is warm and sunny. Be careful though, you don't want to cook the poor little buggers!

 They should germinate anywhere between 7 to 14 days, depending upon how warm it is. Keep the plastic wrap on until the seedlings barely touch it. Remove the wrap. Keep soil damp, not wet. Wet soils promote disease and can cause root rot.
When the seedling grow to be about 4-6 inches in height, it's time to individually transplant them into larger containers or directly in the ground. They may wilt a little bit at first from transplant shock, but Tropical Milkweed is rather hardy and should bounce back within a few days.

Once they've acclimatized themselves to their new surroundings, feed them with a half strength solution of liquid fertilizer. After that, fertilize them on a monthly basis in order to get them to a good size fast for our butterflies to feast on.



Tra-la-la... It's springtime!



Saturday, February 21, 2015




"His talent was as natural as the pattern that was made by the dust on a butterfly's wings. At one time he understood it no more than the butterfly did and he did not know when it was brushed or marred."
~ Ernest Hemingway


Spring is springing early this year, as recorded by the Tropical Milkweed plants budding that were cut back towards the end of December last year. These particular plants were already budding in the middle of January! Usually during this month, subtropicals such as these are still bare-boned twigs jutting out of larger sticks poking up out of the ground.

'Tis time to give garden plants their first taste of fertilizer for the season. The last frost date for the container butterfly garden in its USDA Plant Hardiness Zone is traditionally February 15th. I usually start out with a liquid fertilizer tonic to jump start plants, switching over to granular foods later for their ability to feed for longer periods of time vs. their liquid counterparts. Plus, I'm inherently lazy: no need to fertilize as often.










As for butterflies, we should start seeing Painted Lady butterflies fairly regularly, as they are one of the earliest to arrive if they aren't locally overwintering.




Google
Painted Lady Butterfly, Vanessa cardui



Sunday, January 25, 2015





"On every stem, on every leaf,... and at the root of everything that grew, was a professional specialist in the shape of grub, caterpillar, aphis, or other expert, whose business it was to devour that particular part."
~Oliver Wendell Holmes


Continuing on the subject of Oe spores from the previous post, an article by the Monarch joint Venture, titled Q&A about research related to tropical milkweed and monarch parasites gives us more information on the disease, some of the latest research findings, and some tips on how to mitigate the support and spread of the spores to our local Monarch butterfly populations from our well intentioned gardening actions.


 Photo courtesy of University of Georgia, Athens, Georgia




Sunday, December 28, 2014




"Weather means more when you have a garden. There's nothing like listening to a shower and thinking how it is soaking in around your green beans."
-Marcelene Cox



Winter has firmly set in and established itself in the container garden. Jack Frost hasn't left his calling card yet around here, but it's assumed that Jack will show up in the near future, as recent early morning temps have been hovering in the mid thirties. No sightings or evidence of butterfly presence for quite some time now. A few honeybees here and there; that's about it.

The milkweed in the container garden has been pruned back to minimize the spread of Oe spores, ready for next years influx of Monarch butterflies.







Oe is fairly pervasive now in Monarch populations that have become more localized and non migratory, meaning some individuals and even whole colonies are not migrating as they traditionally do. This shift in behavior is pretty much limited to segments of the west coast race of Monarchs and the Southern Florida strain due to local year round sources of  perennial milkweeds such as Tropical, or also known as, Mexican Milkweed.

Our native perennial milkweeds found growing throughout Monarch butterfly territories die back each winter, unlike tropical milkweeds that grow year round. Oe spores are scattered onto milkweed plants that infected adults visit to feed on nectar or deposit eggs. The eggs hatch, upon which they immediately begin feeding on milkweed leaves and in the process consume Oe spores. These spores germinate and multiply inside of the caterpillar.

If the infection is massive, the cat will die and rupture, releasing thousands and thousands of spores into the environment. If the infection is not so bad as to outright kill the caterpillar, it metamorphoses into a sickened and weak adult that carries the Oe spores on its wings and body, inoculating any plants it contacts, therefor repeating this deadly cycle. The longer the non migrating populations sustain themselves, the greater the chance of contracting and spreading the disease among their brethren.

Oe spores are not a big problem to the heartland races of Monarchs, as the more tender tropical species of milkweeds die back at the first sign of frost and snow. The native perennial species naturally die back to the ground, only to burst back up again in spring, interrupting the Oe life cycle.

Don't be afraid to cut perennial milkweed plants way back. They'll bush out even thicker and fuller next season!

Below are a couple of articles highlighting Monarch butterfly related news that may be of interest:

Monarch Joint Venture partners with National Park Service

MJV Welcomes Green Schools Alliance as New Partner